The Ban Gioc Journey Begins
I’ve flown over mountains, crossed borders, and racked up a whopping 7,864 kilometers on the travel odometer—all for one hidden gem on the very edge of Vietnam that almost no one talks about. It’s one of those places that barely makes it into travel guides, but once you hear about it, it’s impossible to shake off the curiosity.
Locals call it Ban Gioc. And when I finally saw it—no exaggeration—my jaw literally dropped.
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Why Ban Gioc?
Okay, I’ll be honest. I’m not usually one to chase waterfalls (sorry, TLC). But something about Ban Gioc had me hooked from the moment I heard about it. It’s not just any waterfall; it’s a colossal, multi-tiered cascade straddling the border between Vietnam and China. Yeah, that’s right—the actual border. One side is Vietnam, and just across the water, you’re in China.
It’s the kind of place that feels like it belongs on a movie set. And somehow, almost no one talks about it. I knew I had to see it with my own eyes.
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Getting There: The Long, Winding Road
Reaching Ban Gioc isn’t a walk in the park. First, you’ve got to get yourself to Cao Bang, a city tucked away in northern Vietnam. The ride from there to the waterfall is nearly two hours, but honestly? Worth every minute.
The road winds through jaw-dropping landscapes—towering limestone karsts, lush valleys, and tiny villages where time seems to slow down. Sometimes, you’ll catch a glimpse of locals guiding their buffaloes through emerald-green rice fields. Other times, it’s just you, the road, and the mountains stretching endlessly ahead.
As I rode, I couldn’t help but wonder—why don’t more tourists make it up here? Is it the distance? The lack of Wi-Fi? Who knows. But that’s also what makes it feel like you’re discovering something truly special.
First Glimpse of Ban Gioc
As we neared the waterfall, I heard it before I saw it—a low, rumbling roar that seemed to vibrate through the air. My heart picked up pace. I parked my bike, grabbed my camera, and hustled through the entrance like a kid running toward his favorite ride at an amusement park.
And then—there it was. Ban Gioc in all its wild, cascading glory. The sheer scale of it hit me like a tidal wave. Water crashing down in wide, thunderous steps, mist rising in thick plumes, and rainbows dancing at the edges of the spray. It was nature showing off, and it had every right to.
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The Boat Ride: Up Close and Personal
Now, looking at Ban Gioc from a distance was great, but I wanted to get closer—like, almost-getting-soaked close. Turns out, there’s a way to do just that. Local boatmen offer rides right to the base of the waterfall, and of course, I couldn’t pass that up.
Climbing aboard, I found myself squeezed between local families, all just as excited as I was. The boat was this rickety little thing, more raft than vessel, but it didn’t matter. As we approached the waterfall, the roar grew louder, and the mist thickened, dotting my camera lens with tiny droplets.
As we got closer, I noticed something surreal. Half of the people on nearby boats were technically in China, while we were still in Vietnam. The river itself is the border, so just a few feet could mean crossing into another country.
The boat rocked with the force of the water crashing down, and the air felt almost electric. I couldn’t help but stretch out my hands, letting the cool spray hit my face. It was invigorating—like nature’s way of reminding you who’s boss.
The boatman, a guy with a weathered smile, pointed to the opposite side, shouting over the noise, “China!” I laughed, partly because it felt ridiculous to be so close to another country without a passport, and partly because I was just so wrapped up in the sheer beauty of it all.
Standing in Awe
When the boat ride ended, I didn’t immediately leave. I just stood there, soaking it all in. There’s something about standing in the presence of something that powerful and untouched that makes you feel small—but in the best way possible. It’s humbling.
A local vendor was selling freshly grilled corn nearby, so I grabbed one and found a spot to sit and just… exist. Watching the water crash down, feeling the rumble beneath my feet—it’s hard to put into words. Ban Gioc is one of those places where photos don’t quite do it justice. You have to be there, feel the spray, hear the roar, and just let it all sink in.
Reflecting on the Adventure
It’s places like this that remind me why I travel. Its not just about ticking boxes on a bucket list or getting the perfect Instagram shot. It’s about moments like this—raw, beautiful, and a little bit chaotic.
Ban Gioc might not be the easiest place to reach, but that’s exactly why it’s worth it. It’s a place that rewards the adventurous, those who are willing to go the extra mile—or in my case, the extra 7,864 kilometers.
As I left, I took one last look over my shoulder. The waterfall was still crashing, still relentless, as if daring anyone else to come find it. And honestly, if you’re ever in Vietnam and craving an adventure off the beaten path, Ban Gioc is waiting.
The Adventure Continues
Leaving Ban Gioc felt almost bittersweet. One moment I was surrounded by roaring water and rainbows, and the next, I was back on the road, chasing the sun. But there was no time to linger. We had one more mission before calling it a day: God’s Eye Mountain.
I’d seen photos of it online—a mountain with a huge, almost perfectly circular hole near the summit. Like Mother Nature decided to pierce the rock and give us a window to the sky. But would it look as epic in real life? I had to find out.
Hitting the Road: A Race Against the Sunset
The journey to God’s Eye Mountain wasn’t just a ride—it felt like a chase. The sun was already dipping low, and I wasn’t sure if we’d make it in time to see the golden light hitting the mountain just right.
The road was dusty and winding, and as usual, I was sharing it with a herd of buffaloes who seemed utterly unbothered by my rush. Seriously, they looked at me like, “What’s your hurry, dude?”
As we rode on, the landscape began to change. The jagged peaks of northern Vietnam loomed around me, and every now and then, I’d catch a glimpse of that iconic circular hole in the distance. My heart raced—I was getting closer.
First Glimpse of the Eye
When we finally arrived, I almost didn’t believe it. The sun was hanging low, casting long shadows that stretched across the rocky path. And there it was—God’s Eye Mountain, towering like a guardian of the valley, with the iconic hole glowing as the sun started to peek through it.
It was like nature’s version of a lighthouse—guiding the light through the mountains. I could hardly believe my eyes.
I parked the bike and just stood there, taking it all in. The way the light poured through that perfect hole, painting the valley in hues of amber and gold—it was unreal. Like something straight out of a fantasy novel.
Climbing Up for the Best View
Of course, just standing at the base wasn’t enough. I wanted to get higher—closer to that surreal opening. There was a narrow trail winding its way up the hill, and without thinking twice, I started climbing.
The path wasn’t easy—uneven stones, loose dirt, and the occasional bush blocking the way. But adrenaline kept me going. I wasn’t going to come all this way just to stare from the bottom.
Halfway up, I turned to look back, and my breath caught. Below me, the valley stretched out in soft evening light, and the waterfall I’d left behind was just a whisper on the horizon. The air felt different up here—cooler, crisper. Like the mountain itself was alive, breathing in sync with the sky.
The Magic of Golden Hour
When I finally reached the best vantage point, I knew it was worth every step. The sun was perfectly aligned with the hole, shooting golden rays through it like a natural spotlight. The light spilled down the mountainside, illuminating the path I’d just climbed.
I sat down on a rock, catching my breath, and just watched as the sun slowly dipped lower. Around me, the mountains looked like ancient guardians, standing watch as day turned to night.
And that hole? It was mesmerizing. Almost like it was deliberately carved out by something greater than us, meant to remind us of how small we are in the grand scheme of things.
A Moment of Reflection
Sitting there, I couldn’t help but feel a little overwhelmed. This place wasn’t just about the view—it was about the journey to get here. The winding roads, the curious buffaloes, the roar of Ban Gioc, and now this—God’s Eye glowing in the dying light.
I pulled out my camera and took a few shots, but honestly? Pictures couldn’t capture it. They couldn’t capture the feeling of being up there, surrounded by towering peaks, with the sky painted in shades of fire.
At that moment, I knew I’d found one of those rare places that feel sacred, even if you’re not religious. A place where you can just exist, without worrying about tomorrow or yesterday.
Heading Back
As darkness began to creep in, I knew it was time to head back. I reluctantly left my spot, giving the mountain one last glance over my shoulder. The hole in the rock was now just a dark void against the fading light, like an eye closing for the night.
Back on the bike, the road felt different. The journey wasn’t just about seeing God’s Eye—it was about feeling the pulse of the mountains and experiencing the raw, untouched beauty of northern Vietnam.
And honestly? It was more than worth it.
Would I Do It Again?
Absolutely. In a heartbeat. I’d ride those roads, dodge the buffaloes, and chase the sunset every single day if I could. God’s Eye Mountain isn’t just a place you visit—it’s a place that leaves a mark on your soul.
And if you’re looking for an adventure that goes beyond the usual tourist trail, make your way to Ban Gioc and God’s Eye. It might take some effort, but trust me—when you’re standing there, looking through that circular window to the world, you’ll know it was worth every single kilometer.
